Sticky steering advice

Just to make sure I understand ..... its the tube the steering cable passes through (tilt tube)
Or are you talking about the vertical tube that the motor rotates about (pivot tube, steering tube) ?

Just to make sure I understand ..... its the tube the steering cable passes through (tilt tube)
Or are you talking about the vertical tube that the motor rotates about (pivot tube, steering tube) ?

My trouble it not the tube the steering cable passes through, its the vertical pivot tube. After removing the steering cable from the motor I pushed the engine left and right and experienced significantly resistance. I'm assuming the stiffness is the result of dried grease or corrosion, or both. I've been told to get to the point where the pivot tube and its nylon bushings can be cleaned and restored requires removing the power head. Not anything I'm prepared to do myself.

I've never had that happen. I wish I could help, but I just don't know. The penetrating oil sounds like it may be the way to go.

Hmmm
So you are saying the steering is disconnected yet the motor itself still has resistance?

IF so

I don't know what the technical term for it is but years ago on on older Yamaha 90 I had a similar problem.
The grease point on the what I'm going to the motors steering shaft was at the top only. Bad design. they should have had 2 grease points- an upper and lower as you cant get enough grease in it from just the top down to keep things moving. i had to dissassemble the entire motor. lower unit, power head, everything to get to the shaft to regrease it and add an additional grease fitting. ever since that happened I make sure to add grease before launch and after hauling to make sure that never happens again.

Been there, done that,... three times. I would certainly try heat, and oil and anything else you can think of, but we tried all of that too and ended up pulling entire engines apart. Powerheads off, lower units, exhaust housings, motor mounts, all of it.

The problem is usually that the housing corrodes and squeezes the bushings around the tube. So the only real solution is to get it apart and clean out the crud. Unfortunately, the way these geniuses designed them there is no way to just haul the engine off the tube intact. The whole design is very poorly thought out.

This is what you have to get them down to:



That's why it's so expensive.

We actually did the Yammies because the tiller arms rotted to the point where they were unsafe. But the steering also improved remarkably after we were done.

AEROKROIL ! You may have to mail order this penetrating oil, but its what many major utilities use...

Thank you for your input, this is disheartening to say the least. I own one of those small grease guns you can get from Harbor Freight. I use it to grease the wheel bearings. I suppose I'll need an empty grease cartridge to allow the plunger to force the penetrating oil into the pivot tube cavity (pretty sure the plunger ring fits snuggly within the cartridge). I'll clean out as much bearing grease as possible before filling the gun with oil. My grease fitting is also at the top of the tube, I'll have someone work the helm back and forth as I pump penetrating oil through the zerk fitting. Geez, I really hope this works, I don't have the confidence to strip the engine down so only the pivot tube is left. All I see when I look at it are wire connections everywhere and the potential for snapped bolts. Ugh.

I'm wondering if brake cleaner might be better for the first pass. It is an excellent de-greaser and leaves no residue. Is the zerk removable ?

I'm wondering if brake cleaner might be better for the first pass. It is an excellent de-greaser and leaves no residue. Is the zerk removable ?

I assume it could be removed and replaced, however my fitting is on top of the pivot tube and there is no fitting at the bottom. I would feel reluctant to introduce a degreaser into an area that needs lubrication and could not be flushed out. I would think anything injected into the pivot tube will remain in the pivot tube without an additional fitting on the bottom to push it out? Not sure a degreaser would be a good lubricating agent.

De-grease first, then penetrating oil, then re-lube with grease. I believe when filling with grease, it oozes out the bottom seal under pressure. What you flush thru should do the same.

I own one of those small grease guns you can get from Harbor Freight. I use it to grease the wheel bearings. I suppose I'll need an empty grease cartridge to allow the plunger to force the penetrating oil into the pivot tube cavity (pretty sure the plunger ring fits snuggly within the cartridge)

I have never heard of anyone using penetrating oil in an empty grease cartridge Im not sure how that will work out Mild heat or boiling hot water will help break down the older grease (while moving back n forth)

Heat from a hair dryer ? (My tube is close to fuel line)

I have never heard of anyone using penetrating oil in an empty grease cartridge Im not sure how that will work out Mild heat or boiling hot water will help break down the older grease (while moving back n forth)

Cany, the penetrating oil injected with a grease gun was just one thing I saw on youtube. I'm hoping for suggestions to try and resolve my problem. The videos I watched regarding pivot tube issues explained the most probable cause was corrosion not dried grease. It would seem logical to work up from simple solutions first before more radical ones. I'll try the heat gun first to see if it frees up any. Boiling water seems a little dangerous (for me, lol). Don't want to burn myself, not sure how to introduce it without splashing boiling water all over?

Cany, the penetrating oil injected with a grease gun was just one thing I saw on youtube. I'm hoping for suggestions to try and resolve my problem. The videos I watched regarding pivot tube issues explained the most probable cause was corrosion not dried grease. It would seem logical to work up from simple solutions first before more radical ones. I'll try the heat gun first to see if it frees up any. Boiling water seems a little dangerous (for me, lol). Don't want to burn myself, not sure how to introduce it without splashing boiling water all over?

Got ya not familiar with your situation Im use to dealing with old grease and corrosion heat works as does hot water when your in a spot where heat cant be used

I've got another question, what grease you most of you use when greasing the tilt tube or pivot tube on your engine? Do you use the same grease you would use on your wheel bearings or something different?

So I cleaned out the hose of my grease gun the best I could, loaded it with penetrating oil and allowed the grease in the cartridge to push the penetrating oil into the pivot tube fitting. I am able to rotate the engine back and forth but still not as good as I was hoping for. I'm hoping that while using the boat this season the steering will loosen up even more. Even though it's still a bit stiff it is better, my 10 yr old grandson can work the helm so we're looking forward to getting out to chase some Fluke. If only the wind and rain will give us a break. Thanks for your suggestions and comments, they were very much appreciated.

So I cleaned out the hose of my grease gun the best I could, loaded it with penetrating oil and allowed the grease in the cartridge to push the penetrating oil into the pivot tube fitting. I am able to rotate the engine back and forth but still not as good as I was hoping for. I'm hoping that while using the boat this season the steering will loosen up even more. Even though it's still a bit stiff it is better, my 10 yr old grandson can work the helm so we're looking forward to getting out to chase some Fluke. If only the wind and rain will give us a break. Thanks for your suggestions and comments, they were very much appreciated.

Learn something new everyday 👍 👍 glad the penetrating oil in the grease gun worked

So I cleaned out the hose of my grease gun the best I could, loaded it with penetrating oil and allowed the grease in the cartridge to push the penetrating oil into the pivot tube fitting. I am able to rotate the engine back and forth but still not as good as I was hoping for. I'm hoping that while using the boat this season the steering will loosen up even more. Even though it's still a bit stiff it is better, my 10 yr old grandson can work the helm so we're looking forward to getting out to chase some Fluke. If only the wind and rain will give us a break. Thanks for your suggestions and comments, they were very much appreciated.

I've been following the thread and as usual, just had a late brain fart. Since you can introduce oil through your grease gun, next time you're going through this regime, why not try injecting some WD40 first? It should displace any water in the tube (WD means Water Displacement) preventing any pockets of water forming and staying inside. Then go with the penetrating oil and finally the grease. Couldn't hurt...

I had a similar problem on my 2003 Suzuki 140. The steering arm was rusted and flaking right to the top where the steering connects. When disconnected from steering, I could hardly move the motor. I assumed the arm was rusted and expanded in the pivot tube bearing. I tried heating it and pumping grease with no improvement. I drilled into tube and added a grease fitting near the top. Still not much improvement. I realized the problem was right at the top of that pivot bearing. During the season after every trip when boat was on trailer iI left the engine slightly tilted up and sprayed corrosion block into that area forming a puddle at the top. Over the winter I made sure there was oil there. This spring I worked it back and forth and started to see improvement. Now I am able to move the engine back and forth easily when disconnected. I still spray corrosion block into that area after every trip at a slight upward tilt.
Hope this helps.