1996 Privateer Renegade I/O to Outboard Conversion

Electronic gauge or one of those float arm rheostat ones I'm constantly replacing?

not sure ..... came pre-installed when I go the tank. I would guess not electronic.

Roughed up areas where thickened epoxy would contact ...... 80 grit.

not sure ..... came pre-installed when I go the tank. I would guess not electronic.

If there's a brand name on the plate let me know please. I'm always looking for a better replacement. From the photo I'm thinking it's this Moeller


As opposed to this one, my nemesis...



At least my current boat has the port directly over the sender. In my previous one, 1/2 the nuts were off the the side, tightening was a 1/4 turn a clip on an open ended wrench using 2 fingers...

It is a Moeller tank ..... and the first photo sure looks like it.

Yes Dom that's a Moeller not a float arm. Much better float switch.

Looking good Cap !!!!!

you've been busy........

Self quarantined myself in the garage .....
Want the new wiring to be modular. Playing with the layout of components.

mocking up the dash .......

I've been looking forward to this, great job, I just hope we even have a season this year.

I had made up my mind a month ago to strip my boat and make a pilot house with a full transom for twin 150 zuk's.

I already did a mockup of the pilot house from pics and help I found online, had a guy from THT send me pics of the one he made. I modeled mine off of his. Considering a new 25' boat cost 80 to 110k or more, spending 40k to build my own boat to my specs is more cost effective, The hull is a 1985 25' Aquasport express fisherman.

I figured I could build the pilot house during the summer and then strip the boat come fall.

22k for the motors, place in FLA is selling them now for 11k, 1500 for the bracket, new 125 gallon tank 1k.
the rest of the cost would be to rebuild the hull.

At least I would know what i had, everything would be new, except the hull, which is in great shape.
Now, I'm not so sure, but I will keep an open mind.
Keep up the great work Capt, you have inspired me.
Jay

Thanks Jay ..... the price of new drove me down this path. They wanted 45k for a new bare hull and cabin. The final cost for my 1996 hull was around 8k. I also like knowing what I have and how it's put together.

If there's a brand name on the plate let me know please. I'm always looking for a better replacement. From the photo I'm thinking it's this Moeller


As opposed to this one, my nemesis...



At least my current boat has the port directly over the sender. In my previous one, 1/2 the nuts were off the the side, tightening was a 1/4 turn a clip on an open ended wrench using 2 fingers...

Here is the Manufacturer:
www.wemausa.com


I have this one in the boat for 13 years and no problems and they make it to fit the depth of any tank.

Bent the top edge of the black acrylic over for the dash, epoxied coated the terminal strip breaker board.

There were quite a few holes needing to be filled on the cabin wall and deck. This boat was built for the Chesapeake Bridge and Tunnel Authority to do inspections on the bridge and tunnel system. There were all sorts of specialized equipment mounted when I got it. All removed. Holes filled.

Scuffed up the areas on the underside of the plywood covering the tank and bonded it in place using thickened epoxy.

Started grinding again ......

2 layers 1708 over plywood fillers in old instrument holes .... i know, overkill

2 layers 1708 over plywood fillers in old instrument holes .... i know, overkill

View attachment 17479


View attachment 17478

There's no such thing as overkill when it comes to your boat. R u going to glass over your gas tank? I see the 2 deck lids, just curious if this is your intent.

Yes .... plywood covering the gas tank has been glassed in. I put foam cut-outs in the holes when I glassed it to make it cleaner (no drips) and easier to open those areas up to put the deck plates in.

Started grinding again ......

View attachment 17477

is Noli OK with that??

😆