No. Palomar the barrel swivel to the braid. Improved clinch leader to barrel.
Gotcha
I misread you. I thought you meant snap swivel at braid and then were putting a barrel on too of leader at opposite end of jig 😎
No. Palomar the barrel swivel to the braid. Improved clinch leader to barrel.
Gotcha
I misread you. I thought you meant snap swivel at braid and then were putting a barrel on too of leader at opposite end of jig 😎
So no one uses a metal clip/snap, etc. to make jig changes quick. I don't either. But why?? It's probably stronger than the surgeon's loop? I can't believe it would scare away the fish. But I feel like i have better results with a straight tie. I just can't figure out why.
I like to go straight line to line. Again, it's all personal preference.
I also prefer no hardware when togging, less to snag. I use topshot mono at same strength as braid on reel and tie on where the mono Belmar rig breaks off. My 20' topshot is closer to 7' at end of day..
At the risk of making it worse, here's a pair of videos that illustrate my 40lb braided line to 40lb shock leader (typically around 6-7 feet) via a PR Bobbin knot, snap on the other end of it to my rig. Note clear plastic bead that prevents swivel to rod tiptop crashes. 100lb barrel swivel top of rig, 50lb Big game - "Stand-off T-knot" dropper loop to hook. Doubled overhand loop for sinker. Note the small glow bead ahead of the hook. Never a problem with any of the "hardware." Normally its the sinker that hangs up - break it off, unsnap damaged rig, snap on new rig, put sinker on, bait up and drop back down. Takes maybe 30 seconds for the whole dealeo.
Similar setup for jigs on my spinning setups - except 30lb shock leader and rig is just an 18" piece of 40lb Big Game with a barrel swivel on one end and a double overhand loop knot for the jig.
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I also prefer no hardware when togging, less to snag. I use topshot mono at same strength as braid on reel and tie on where the mono Belmar rig breaks off. My 20' topshot is closer to 7' at end of day..
Do you find that you use a lot more mono when using a Belmar rig being you have to double it over?
Thanks again for all the responses. For my trip Wednesday, I decided to go with the coastlock snaps and pretied leaders with barrel swivel one end and loop on the other. It’ll be a departure for me as up till now I’ve used less hardware at the expense of having to do more knot tying for jig changes or breakoffs.
Question - all other things being equal, how much do the snaps, swivels, jig loop (vs. knot tied), and even the beads add to drag in the water column? I struggle to get jigs as light as others are using down, blackfishing or fluking. I can understand when the current is strong enough to matter, but am wondering what else might be working against me.
Other things to consider would be your braid test, rod and reel.
Do you find that you use a lot more mono when using a Belmar rig being you have to double it over?
Yes, that's why my topshot starts at 20' and Leps' at 7'...
Other things to consider would be your braid test, rod and reel.
Spinning rod and reel, 20# Power Pro. Maybe it’s the operator!
Spinning rod and reel, 20# Power Pro. Maybe it’s the operator!
Nah. What kind of rod?
Nah. What kind of rod?
7’ Tsunami Carbon Shield II MH, Daiwa Fuego 3000
7’ Tsunami Carbon Shield II MH, Daiwa Fuego 3000
You're fine
Not sure how sensitive those tips are. Make sure it's not to stiff, otherwise it may be too late by the time you realize the crab is gone
Looks like you had a great day yesterday!!
Looks like you had a great day yesterday!!
All in all an incredible day. More than made up for last year's 3 wind cancellations.
Had one jig leader breakoff. Hooked new leader on swivel to clip in seconds. I did appreciate how quickly that got me back on the bottom.
How did the carbon shield feel?
I always liked that rod. Have had it for a few years now. Sensitive enough tip, at least for me, that I could see most of the taps I was getting.
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